Dolpo is a Tibetan-like region lying to the north, and in the rain-shadow of the main Himalayan
peaks. Like nearby Mustang, it has a unique culture. It's people wear traditional Tibetan-style
clothes and jewellery and practise the pre-Buddhist animistic religion of Bon Po. It's remoteness and
the fact that only until recently it was strictly off-limits, has meant that the traditions and way of life
have remained intact. Most villages in Dolpo are removed from the rest of the world to the south by one or more difficult passes. The people that live here number only a few hundred and are among the world's highest dwellers. The villages in Upper Dolpo are 14,300m and above. It is here specifically that
people still practise the pre-Buddhist Bon Po religion. This early sect was almost entirely replaced
after Buddhist doctrine began to spread across Tibet in the 9th century. Dolpo remained unknown
to the rest of the world until David Snelgrove discovered the region in 1956. His account of his
seven-month journey in the inner mountain areas of west and central Nepal, titled 'Himalayan
Pilgrimage' is the most authoritative work describing this region. The best known book though, is
the evocative and romantic novel by Peter Matthiessen - 'The Snow Leopard'.
The permit to visit Shey Gompa costs considerably more than most other 'restricted' areas of Nepal, but the journey to Shey is one of the special ones of the Himalaya. Trekking here offers a real adventure, in a remote, unspoiled. part of Nepal that has remained largely untracked and unexplored.
Our trek begins with a flight to Jumla via Nepalgunj. The first part of trek is not difficult and provides delightful walking before joining ancient trade routes and the steep ascent to cross the 3875meters of pass. The scenery begins to change with the hills becoming shades of red, brown and gray. Eventually you can hear prayer flag fluttering at the top of the pass, and the view opens up dramatically looking east towards the snow peaks of the kanjiroba Himal and the five peaks of Dhaulagiri. We soon walk through the pleasant green pastures to the beautiful Phoksundo (Rigmo) lake. The scenery is outstanding with the deep blue waters of the lake contrasting with the weathered red and brown hills.
We cross over high pass, the Kang La pass 5151m and to Shey Gompa then crossing Saldang La pass and Jenje La pass. From the Jenje La descend into the Tarap valley to the village of Dho Tarap. Our adventurous journey finally comes to and end at Juphal with an easy two days walk following the Bheri River to the small airstrip at Juphal and we fly back to Kathmandu via Nepalgunj.
